Pittwater and the end of a voyage

We left Soldiers Point Marina at 4.30am in preparation for a long day sail down to Pittwater north of Sydney, some 75 nautical miles. The wind looked promising hopefully 10 to 15 knots from the north east which would see us covering the distance fairly quickly. The sun shone red as it rose above the horizon due to the amount of dust and smoke in the atmosphere and in fact the day remained hazy for most of the journey. The wind came and went and finally arrived again for a last puff allowing us to pole out the head sail and make good progress. We were able to sail all the way along the length of Pittwater to the Royal Prince Alfred Yacht Club our final destination!

We had reached the end of our voyage up and down the east coast of Australia. Dreamweaver had safely carried us 4168 nautical miles from Melbourne to Lizard Island and back to Sydney over 6 months. In a way it's a shame we won't make the return journey to Melbourne but time has run out and work beckons for both Roger and I!!

The last two days have been spent preparing Dreamweaver for the final stage of the voyage, she will be delivered back to Melbourne when a good weather window presents itself. We are leaving her on a mooring at Palm Beach for a short while and hope all will be well!!

So it's from here that I write this final entry to our blog. Roger has attempted to prolong his long service leave several times today! He has managed to fall down and bang his hip whilst walking on a sea wall, leant on a wooden pile on a very dodgy pier which gave way and finally has fallen from the back of the Dreamweaver into the sea whilst climbing from a dingy after exploring Palm Beach! All to no avail. He remains fit and able to return to work, long service leave at an end!

We have had a marvellous time which seems to have past all to quickly. The sailing has been one of two journeys. The first with the wind behind us surfing down waves at 12+ knots, covering the miles easily. The return has been light winds with pauses in ports waiting for stronger less favourable winds from the south to pass. For now we sit this our last evening, in Pittwater supping the last bottle of red and listening to heavy rain and thunder storms! If my memory is correct the last time we were here the weather was similar and we hid in the Hawksbury for 4 days! Tomorrow we fly back to Melbourne where Jonathan and Nick will meet us at the airport.

So we raise our glasses at the end of our voyage and wish for fair winds and other happy future sailing adventures. Bon voyage Roger and Anne.

Waiting for Weather Windows!

Our stay in the Gold Coast was slightly longer than we had planed as the wind blew from the south and forecasts from the bureaux of meteorology looked less than promising. As it turned out their modeling of the weather systems was a little inaccurate and we could have left a day earlier than we did. However, we would have had to use the engine and motor rather than sail.

I'm not sure that I like the Gold Coast very much. It's an incongruous place of contradictions. Hugely expensive apartment blocks with flats selling for millions in juxtaposition with the odd original house that has outlasted the pressures of re-development. These are gradually falling to pieces their owners hoping for the next development to be on their site! It seems to want to be brash and glitzy but it just seems seedy, particularly in the main tourist areas which look like they need a real clean up. Southport Yacht Club is in a different location and appears to have escaped this in some ways and is an enclave of boats.

With our longer than planned stay I managed to persuade Roger to go to the Wet and Wild theme park. He wasn't keen but I have always loved whizzing down water slides! We had a great time and slid our way down all the rides, sharing some and racing each other down others. We enjoyed the Black Hole the most!

We managed to see Tony and Elaine again with Lisa this time before heading out the next day to sail over night to Coffs Harbour. This was an uneventful journey back into New South Wales waters accompanied on much of the journey by dolphins and whales. The predicted wind didn't materialise but at one stage blew up to 20+ knots from the south. As it wasn't much fun bashing into this we stopped for a couple of hours at Byron Bay to let the wind decide what it was doing. As it turned out the wind dropped out and we motor sailed through the night doing our usual trick of arriving early! This wasn't such a bad thing as we got there before the next weather change.

What a dramatic change this turned out to be! The wind blew strongly from the west clocking the eastern states of Australia in orange dust picked up from the centre of the country. Thankfully we were not at sea as one couldn't see more than 50 meters and everything exposed became thickly coated. It lasted a full day before the sky's cleared and the wind blew itself out! The next weather window presented itself and we decided to make the next overnight dash down the coast to Port Stephens. We had hoped to stop off at a few locations along our route but looking ahead more bad weather was heading our way! This influenced the decision to sail over night and get there as quickly as possible! We certainly can tell we are further south now with the influence of weather patterns coming from the west along the south coast! Colder for sure!

Well we arrived in Port Stephens, an easy entry through the heads of Nelson Bay this time unlike the trip up. Calm waters and a gentle breeze what a difference! We anchored overnight in a beautiful inlet called Fame Bay and awaited the next predicted weather change of strong winds from the north. Just to trick us they arrived with a flourish, 35+ knots but from the west early morning! More cloaking dust and an exposed anchorage! This saw us grabbing some shorts dressing as we went, donning a life jacket and quickly on the deck lifting the anchor to move to an adjacent bay giving us protection from the west! The wind howled all day with gusts in excess of 30 knots for the most part. The dust settled after 3 hours the shore line visible again but we maintained a strict watch on our anchor throughout the day. Not the lie in we had hoped for after a long night sail the previous day!

Well from here we sail back to Pittwater where we plan to leave Dreamweaver. This should be a day sail from here, we just need to wait for the next weather window in our favour! Hope it's not a long wait! We're meant to get back to Melbourne by the end of next week, the return to reality and work!!!!

Having a Whale of a Time in the Great Sandy Straight!

From Lady Musgrave Island and the surreal feel of being anchored in the middle of a vast empty area of sea, 35 nautical miles from land and surrounded by reef we set sail and headed for the top of Fraser Island. Negotiating the entrance to the lagoon once more we left with the wind from the north east, blue skies and gentle seas. We were pleased to have made the decision to leave as the wind started to gradually build which could have made the narrow channel through the reef a little tricky! We had been very fortunate to have two calm days to see this isolated location at it's best.

Our passage north had seen us sail overnight around the outside of Fraser Island. On returning south we intended to visit Platypus Bay at the entrance to Harvey Bay this would mean sailing up through the inside of Fraser Island and the main land. This area is one of the principle birthing areas for the Hump Back Whales and where all the tour operators visit with their whale watching trips. Immediately on leaving Lady Musgrave we started spotting whales, everywhere! We slowed our progress to watch as they demonstrated their awesome mastery of the seas, breeching, tail slapping and fin waving as we passed. They appeared to know we were near but were at times very close! I'm not sure how Dreamweaver would have coped with a whale of 20tons hitting her! They obviously hadn't understood the proximity limits set for yachts and seemed much closer at times than 100 meters! It was a beautiful experience, one which Roger and I will always cherish.

We spent a night at the marina in Urangan and then headed back to Fraser Island to re-visit the Kingfisher Eco Resort. We had stayed here as family 10 years ago so it was lovely to return, this time anchoring and taking our tender ashore. We enjoyed the beauty of this area of Fraser Island with it's massive mature eucalyptus trees shading the lush ferns below. We enjoyed the swimming pool and took advantage of a great cup of coffee! In the evening as we watched the sun dip over the wide horizon of Harvey Bay we were visited by a rare species of dolphin frolicing around us. A beautiful end to a perfect day.

The following day the stresses of negotiating the Great Sandy Straight lay a head! This is basically a shoaling area of sand with narrow channels allowing yachts to pass through under great care. Roger did the navigating, I held the wheel for some of the time but Georgina our auto helm did a great job of getting us safely from one set point to the next! Good old GPS and chart plotters! I ticked off every beacon as we passed and kept my fingers crossed in the hope that we wouldn't run aground! This is a very common occurrence with many a yacht having to take a long lunch break until the tide filled in and refloated them. We touched once but a thrust in reverse saw us free! We both needed a beer at the end of the day as we anchored in Tin Can Bay nerves and boat intact, thankful to have got over that hurdle. Roger had kept telling me that it was much less stressful going around the outside of Fraser Island . In some ways he's right but I haven't found many other yachts that have done it! We spent two peaceful days in Tin Can Bay Inlet psyching ourselves up face our next hurdle, crossing the infamous Wide Bay Bar to exit the Great Sandy Straight! Our first bar crossing!

Up early, ready to catch the change of tide we set out. The first section is known as the mad mile and it's a pretty good description. Waves come from all directions as they break on the sand bars between the main land and Fraser Island, this did a great job of confusing the auto helm. Roger took over the helming of Dreamweaver as I directed our course from one way point to the next. Three critical points to hit to achieve the easiest passage preventing catastrophe and the might of the breaking waves and the full washing machine effect. It took an hour from start to clearing the bar and reaching safe water! Another first achieved without drama thankfully! A few more beers needed at the end of the day to get over the stresses of the crossing! We set sail with the help of the engine for Mooloolaba.

We spent 3 nights in Mooloolaba catching up with some yachting friends Peter and Jane and also enjoying a day visit from Tony and Elaine. Always great to catch up with everybody and share stories. From here we have sailed overnight to Southport on the Gold Coast. We feel we are really heading south now on to our final destination and the return to reality. From here we will be sailing back into New South Wales waters, farewell to glorious Queensland and it's marvellous experiences and people!

On to Lady Musgrave

R has returned to blog writing! The sunny weather and light winds continued after Tony and Mark left. Mackay seemed a little more attractive this time with the glorious weather. Still no time to hang about, the usual washing, shopping, and maintenance.

We set off for Curlew Island with little wind so yet more motor sailing/motoring. The pilot area off Hay Point had 32 ships on the AIS, fortunately none manoeuvring and asking for our avoidance! With the wind from the north we had to look for different anchorages so we accepted a small bay on the west side of Curlew as protection from the NE wind, one not recommended by Alan and we know why! Yes one of those rolly nights that you keep tossing up whether to leave as you get no sleep!! Morning doesn't come soon enough.

On to the Duke Islands and the south aspect of Hunter Island in a most beautiful anchorage. We spent 2 nights there enjoying the sun and the calm bay, especially the night. Anne should have been a biologist as she has spent most of the trip fascinated by the flora and fauna. We had great seats for watching an eagle keep its young chick happy in a cliff top nest not far off the stern. That is not when we are exploring the beaches and working out how she would survive shipwrecked on a deserted Island!

On to Island Head Creek back on the mainland. We continued to be blessed with sun and light wind from the north. Another beaut location, a feeling of remoteness. We did notice some campers at the end of the beach who appeared to come in a small motor boat. The area is part of a huge military training area. In the evening they lit a camp fire and then a little later we saw the headland adjacent to their site catch fire. In the morning they disappeared before first light. We explored the location to find the camp fire still alight and the headland still burning! Fortunately there was little breeze and it was separated from the main headland by some beach. Apart from putting out the camp fire there was little we could do.

On to Rosslyn Bay, Yeppoon. It lived up to its labelling as the friendliest marina. The weather finally changed and for the next five days there was 20 knots from the south! The courtesy car was greatfully appreciated for provisioning and visit to the DIY shop! We spent much time with fellow cruisers from Sydney – Robara and Ishta. Anne befriended the fishermen again and lightened them of there catch. We don't seem to be able to repeat Marks effort! I went up the mast 5 times to replace the steaming light bulb. I couldn't work out how to open the fitting and with no instructions available [even on he internet!] didn't want to break it. The view was great and Anne got a work out winching me up and down, up and …!

The weather finally changed or so the forecast said it would! The three of us set off at 5 o'clock in the morning to be met with more wind on the nose. Suffice to say a long day and we arrived at Pancake Creek in the dark at 7pm. The chart plotter was interesting as we appear able to sail over the land. The next day the wind dropped to nothing and we motored out to Lady Musgrave Island some 32 nm off the coast and the end of the Great Barrier Reef.

You pray for weather like this to visit an outer reef lagoon and cay. We found the narrow passage into the lagoon daunting. Low tide meant all the reef was exposed including all the coral below and to the side as one traverses the gap. The swirling ebb tide of 3 knots didn't help. On to the anchorage and bommie avoidance! After that it was a fantastic 2 days, calm seas and great visibility. We left with the wind increasing to 20 knots from the north, great timing!

Tony and Marks visit

Visitors to the Whitsundays

The good weather continues and we sail south to the Whitsunday Islands and our rendezvous with Roger's brother Tony and his son Mark in Hamilton Island. We made good time to Cape Upstart via Cape Bowling Green with favourable winds continuing to push us southwards. The following day
we sailed passed Gloucester Island and anchored the night at Armit Island in the north of the Whitsundays. I had imagined this section of our return trip to be a slog as the distances between possible anchorages is considerable especially if beating and tacking along the coast. In the end it was a couple of days of pleasant sailing with light northerly breezes. On passing Gloucester Island the coastline is again green and lush, with gentle mountainous islands covered in trees. Townsville to Bowen is much drier with the Great Dividing Range set back more from the coast creating a rain shadow.

Whilst we sail towards Airlie Beach and Able Point Marina we slow down to enjoy watching the yachts gathering for the start of another race day. Roger spots a familiar sail and boat and with much waving Rosie and David on Ingenue from Brighton come over. We stop and they circle us as we catch up on each others news.

The Bureaux of Meteorology has posted a strong wind warning for late this afternoon and night with the south easterly winds set to return for less than 24 hours. We elect to spend the night in Cid Harbour making an easy sail in the morning to collect our visitors. That night we drop anchor in the security of this natural harbour along with another 64 boats! So much for the solitude of some of our previous nights.

In the morning with the winds easing we collect Tony and Mark and set out for Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island. This makes for an interesting motor sail for our non sailors! With the swell remaining from the stronger winds and the affect of the tide against this we see some larger swells, overfall's and areas of flat water caused by the spiralling currents! We pushed our way up the Solway passage following a spectacular display of the power of tides on the water. Anchoring at Whitehaven saw the sun going down and the end of another day and the start of a swell dominated sleep. Tony was not that impressed!!

The following morning the Whitsundays turn on all their charms, the silica sand beach glistening white against the back drop of blues and greens. More perfect conditions with little breeze to speak of so it's out with the iron spinnaker ( engine) again! To compliment the weather nature turns on all her marvels with an abundance of turtles, birds, dolphins and lastly humpback whales! Mothers and their babies breaking water, slapping the surface ,breeching and generally looking majestic as they glide through the water. A perfect tour for visitors!

Mark takes a turn at fishing, trolling a line and lure off the back of the boat. His patience is rewarded on his last day on Dreamweaver as he lands a 24 inch Spotted Mackerel! He then practised his surgical skills cleaning and filleting the fish. As the fish was caught on our way to Mackay and it was their last day on board the fish was cooked and enjoyed by all for lunch. The freshest fish any of us had ever eaten I think!

During their stay we visited several islands, Whitsunday, Haszlewood, Thomas, Goldsmith and Brampton this time to all the northerly anchorages. We then motored all the way to Mackay over glass like seas spotting more whales and dolphins on our journey.

It was lovely having guests aboard and as they left to catch their flight home it was Roger and I once more, alone on Dreamweaver ready to commence the journey southwards.

Hinchinbrook

Since leaving Cairns the weather has been fantastically kind to us with clear blue skies and puffs of breeze from the north pushing us in the right direction. What a change from the awful 4 days sail back from Lizard Island. The weather has in fact been so calm it has allowed us to visit the eastern side of Hinchinbrook Island. We had taken the more protected Hinchinbrook Channel on our journey north and had hoped to get the opportunity to visit the much talked about Zoe Bay on our return journey.

The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful, high sharp peaks of granite lifting skyward to form razor like ridges that ran the length of the island. Some of these edifices were enormous with sheer vertical drops plummeting down to the sea. In some ways the grandeur of the mountains reminded me of the Kintail Mountain range in Scotland that Roger and I had walked in our younger days. The valleys between green and clocked with giant trees. At night the view became surreal as some areas began having some selected burning off and the mountains glowed red against the starry night sky.

Taking our time we moored in Macushla Bay at Cape Richards and then Banksia Bay just north of Zoe Bay. We elected to spend the night here as Zoe Bay is prone to swells even in the calmest conditions which make sleep an impossibility. As the sun lifted over the horizon we weighed anchor and motored around to Zoe Bay for breakfast. Again the mountain scenery was beautiful with a magnificent beach and creek. We followed the creek and came to Zoe Bays famed waterfall and swimming pools. A well deserved plunge in the cooling water was had without the risk of the ever present crocs on Hinchinbrook!

Leaving Zoe Bay we were able to sail across to Fantome Island, the site of a leper colony come hospital up until the 1970s. The majority of the buildings had been destroyed though signs of the islands previous role were still evident amongst the grass. It was a lovely island with marvellous views but one couldn't help wonder at the pain and suffering that had been experienced by the people there. It is now managed by the local aboriginal community,surrounded by beautiful corals and it's waters visited by Dugongs which we were lucky enough to see.

From here we had a night stop over at Harold and Rattlesnake Islands checking they were not being used by the air force as a bombing range first. In the morning we headed for Townsville, each major town marks a significant step on our homeward journey and leaving Townsville would mean we were no longer in Far North Queensland. We re-provisioned in preparation for a visit from Roger's brother who was joining us in the Whitsunday's in a few days time.

Re Energised!!

Well the sail back to Cairns offered nothing but strong winds, 25 to 30 knots on the nose, rain and squalls and seas like a corrugated road! Poor old Dreamweaver slammed into these for 4 days but managed the ordeal without breakage taking us eventually into the refuge of Marlin Marina. We had been crippled by our ongoing battery problems which were showing serious signs of imminent death on our arrival. We had not used the auto helm and were anxious that we would have no instrumentation on our trip back without running the engine. It wasn't quite as bad as we thought but with little solar input on cloudy days we were struggling at times. The marina offered us copious amounts of power! No more sharing of head torches whilst reading at night! Every light on, music playing and television what luxury!

We made contact with Leo Wolf. He had been recommended as an electrician by some fellow yachties in Lizard Island and a more helpful person you couldn't hope to meet. As a German Australian he examined the batteries, arranged to have them tested and pronounced in a dry and laconic accent that they were kaput or terminally stuffed! All it would take was $1600 and we would be back in business free to sail the coast again! Needless to say the deal was done! (one of lifes no choice choices!) Dreamweaver was given a resuscitating set of new batteries and true to Leo's word all seems to have been fixed and our equipment now runs smoothly. Even the anchor lifts without alarming!

We also had the pleasure of meeting John a local sail maker who equally went out of his way to be helpful. He repaired our main sail bag which had certainly seen too many strong winds and also fixed a batten pocket which had popped on a brand new sail battling down from Lizard. So all jobs accounted for we were back, re energised, buzzing electrified and ready to head out again confident in our power situation!

Whilst in Cairns waiting for an improvement in the weather Roger and I celebrated our silver wedding anniversary! We can't believe we've been together for so many years but I guess 4 months on a boat to date hasn't seen us throwing one another off! We had a lovely meal on the anniversary but two nights later discovered a little Greek restaurant. We went to Paxos in Greece on our honeymoon, sailing and windsurfing! Has anything changed apart from us getting older! Suffice to say we ordered the same food which we had enjoyed 25 years previously. Rogers idea!

Our first night was spent at Fitzroy Island the inevitable first stop from Cairns. On our arrival we spotted another Brighton boat Instant Karma with Paul and Kathleen Wise on board. They proceeded to follow us down to Mourilyan Harbour. At times it appeared we were racing but as the wind dropped off both boats opted to use their motors to complete the journey. The competitive spirit of sailors was halted by the nature of the wind and a need for a cool beer at the end of a long day. Instant Karma kindly picked us up in their tender and post sailing drinks were enjoyed by all.

Anyhow as you see we have now left Cairns! One week later all repairs done and are heading south. Somehow it already seems cooler! It was my birthday yesterday and the day was perfect. Calm seas, blue skies, breakfast at a beautiful little island hardly visited and then onto Dunk to watch the day close over the sea for another perfect sunset! The perfect present was watching hump backed whales frolic in the calm protected waters, breaking through the waves from the decks of Dreamweaver.