From Lady Musgrave Island and the surreal feel of being anchored in the middle of a vast empty area of sea, 35 nautical miles from land and surrounded by reef we set sail and headed for the top of Fraser Island. Negotiating the entrance to the lagoon once more we left with the wind from the north east, blue skies and gentle seas. We were pleased to have made the decision to leave as the wind started to gradually build which could have made the narrow channel through the reef a little tricky! We had been very fortunate to have two calm days to see this isolated location at it's best.
Our passage north had seen us sail overnight around the outside of Fraser Island. On returning south we intended to visit Platypus Bay at the entrance to Harvey Bay this would mean sailing up through the inside of Fraser Island and the main land. This area is one of the principle birthing areas for the Hump Back Whales and where all the tour operators visit with their whale watching trips. Immediately on leaving Lady Musgrave we started spotting whales, everywhere! We slowed our progress to watch as they demonstrated their awesome mastery of the seas, breeching, tail slapping and fin waving as we passed. They appeared to know we were near but were at times very close! I'm not sure how Dreamweaver would have coped with a whale of 20tons hitting her! They obviously hadn't understood the proximity limits set for yachts and seemed much closer at times than 100 meters! It was a beautiful experience, one which Roger and I will always cherish.
We spent a night at the marina in Urangan and then headed back to Fraser Island to re-visit the Kingfisher Eco Resort. We had stayed here as family 10 years ago so it was lovely to return, this time anchoring and taking our tender ashore. We enjoyed the beauty of this area of Fraser Island with it's massive mature eucalyptus trees shading the lush ferns below. We enjoyed the swimming pool and took advantage of a great cup of coffee! In the evening as we watched the sun dip over the wide horizon of Harvey Bay we were visited by a rare species of dolphin frolicing around us. A beautiful end to a perfect day.
The following day the stresses of negotiating the Great Sandy Straight lay a head! This is basically a shoaling area of sand with narrow channels allowing yachts to pass through under great care. Roger did the navigating, I held the wheel for some of the time but Georgina our auto helm did a great job of getting us safely from one set point to the next! Good old GPS and chart plotters! I ticked off every beacon as we passed and kept my fingers crossed in the hope that we wouldn't run aground! This is a very common occurrence with many a yacht having to take a long lunch break until the tide filled in and refloated them. We touched once but a thrust in reverse saw us free! We both needed a beer at the end of the day as we anchored in Tin Can Bay nerves and boat intact, thankful to have got over that hurdle. Roger had kept telling me that it was much less stressful going around the outside of Fraser Island . In some ways he's right but I haven't found many other yachts that have done it! We spent two peaceful days in Tin Can Bay Inlet psyching ourselves up face our next hurdle, crossing the infamous Wide Bay Bar to exit the Great Sandy Straight! Our first bar crossing!
Up early, ready to catch the change of tide we set out. The first section is known as the mad mile and it's a pretty good description. Waves come from all directions as they break on the sand bars between the main land and Fraser Island, this did a great job of confusing the auto helm. Roger took over the helming of Dreamweaver as I directed our course from one way point to the next. Three critical points to hit to achieve the easiest passage preventing catastrophe and the might of the breaking waves and the full washing machine effect. It took an hour from start to clearing the bar and reaching safe water! Another first achieved without drama thankfully! A few more beers needed at the end of the day to get over the stresses of the crossing! We set sail with the help of the engine for Mooloolaba.
We spent 3 nights in Mooloolaba catching up with some yachting friends Peter and Jane and also enjoying a day visit from Tony and Elaine. Always great to catch up with everybody and share stories. From here we have sailed overnight to Southport on the Gold Coast. We feel we are really heading south now on to our final destination and the return to reality. From here we will be sailing back into New South Wales waters, farewell to glorious Queensland and it's marvellous experiences and people!
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