Pittwater and the end of a voyage

We left Soldiers Point Marina at 4.30am in preparation for a long day sail down to Pittwater north of Sydney, some 75 nautical miles. The wind looked promising hopefully 10 to 15 knots from the north east which would see us covering the distance fairly quickly. The sun shone red as it rose above the horizon due to the amount of dust and smoke in the atmosphere and in fact the day remained hazy for most of the journey. The wind came and went and finally arrived again for a last puff allowing us to pole out the head sail and make good progress. We were able to sail all the way along the length of Pittwater to the Royal Prince Alfred Yacht Club our final destination!

We had reached the end of our voyage up and down the east coast of Australia. Dreamweaver had safely carried us 4168 nautical miles from Melbourne to Lizard Island and back to Sydney over 6 months. In a way it's a shame we won't make the return journey to Melbourne but time has run out and work beckons for both Roger and I!!

The last two days have been spent preparing Dreamweaver for the final stage of the voyage, she will be delivered back to Melbourne when a good weather window presents itself. We are leaving her on a mooring at Palm Beach for a short while and hope all will be well!!

So it's from here that I write this final entry to our blog. Roger has attempted to prolong his long service leave several times today! He has managed to fall down and bang his hip whilst walking on a sea wall, leant on a wooden pile on a very dodgy pier which gave way and finally has fallen from the back of the Dreamweaver into the sea whilst climbing from a dingy after exploring Palm Beach! All to no avail. He remains fit and able to return to work, long service leave at an end!

We have had a marvellous time which seems to have past all to quickly. The sailing has been one of two journeys. The first with the wind behind us surfing down waves at 12+ knots, covering the miles easily. The return has been light winds with pauses in ports waiting for stronger less favourable winds from the south to pass. For now we sit this our last evening, in Pittwater supping the last bottle of red and listening to heavy rain and thunder storms! If my memory is correct the last time we were here the weather was similar and we hid in the Hawksbury for 4 days! Tomorrow we fly back to Melbourne where Jonathan and Nick will meet us at the airport.

So we raise our glasses at the end of our voyage and wish for fair winds and other happy future sailing adventures. Bon voyage Roger and Anne.

Waiting for Weather Windows!

Our stay in the Gold Coast was slightly longer than we had planed as the wind blew from the south and forecasts from the bureaux of meteorology looked less than promising. As it turned out their modeling of the weather systems was a little inaccurate and we could have left a day earlier than we did. However, we would have had to use the engine and motor rather than sail.

I'm not sure that I like the Gold Coast very much. It's an incongruous place of contradictions. Hugely expensive apartment blocks with flats selling for millions in juxtaposition with the odd original house that has outlasted the pressures of re-development. These are gradually falling to pieces their owners hoping for the next development to be on their site! It seems to want to be brash and glitzy but it just seems seedy, particularly in the main tourist areas which look like they need a real clean up. Southport Yacht Club is in a different location and appears to have escaped this in some ways and is an enclave of boats.

With our longer than planned stay I managed to persuade Roger to go to the Wet and Wild theme park. He wasn't keen but I have always loved whizzing down water slides! We had a great time and slid our way down all the rides, sharing some and racing each other down others. We enjoyed the Black Hole the most!

We managed to see Tony and Elaine again with Lisa this time before heading out the next day to sail over night to Coffs Harbour. This was an uneventful journey back into New South Wales waters accompanied on much of the journey by dolphins and whales. The predicted wind didn't materialise but at one stage blew up to 20+ knots from the south. As it wasn't much fun bashing into this we stopped for a couple of hours at Byron Bay to let the wind decide what it was doing. As it turned out the wind dropped out and we motor sailed through the night doing our usual trick of arriving early! This wasn't such a bad thing as we got there before the next weather change.

What a dramatic change this turned out to be! The wind blew strongly from the west clocking the eastern states of Australia in orange dust picked up from the centre of the country. Thankfully we were not at sea as one couldn't see more than 50 meters and everything exposed became thickly coated. It lasted a full day before the sky's cleared and the wind blew itself out! The next weather window presented itself and we decided to make the next overnight dash down the coast to Port Stephens. We had hoped to stop off at a few locations along our route but looking ahead more bad weather was heading our way! This influenced the decision to sail over night and get there as quickly as possible! We certainly can tell we are further south now with the influence of weather patterns coming from the west along the south coast! Colder for sure!

Well we arrived in Port Stephens, an easy entry through the heads of Nelson Bay this time unlike the trip up. Calm waters and a gentle breeze what a difference! We anchored overnight in a beautiful inlet called Fame Bay and awaited the next predicted weather change of strong winds from the north. Just to trick us they arrived with a flourish, 35+ knots but from the west early morning! More cloaking dust and an exposed anchorage! This saw us grabbing some shorts dressing as we went, donning a life jacket and quickly on the deck lifting the anchor to move to an adjacent bay giving us protection from the west! The wind howled all day with gusts in excess of 30 knots for the most part. The dust settled after 3 hours the shore line visible again but we maintained a strict watch on our anchor throughout the day. Not the lie in we had hoped for after a long night sail the previous day!

Well from here we sail back to Pittwater where we plan to leave Dreamweaver. This should be a day sail from here, we just need to wait for the next weather window in our favour! Hope it's not a long wait! We're meant to get back to Melbourne by the end of next week, the return to reality and work!!!!

Having a Whale of a Time in the Great Sandy Straight!

From Lady Musgrave Island and the surreal feel of being anchored in the middle of a vast empty area of sea, 35 nautical miles from land and surrounded by reef we set sail and headed for the top of Fraser Island. Negotiating the entrance to the lagoon once more we left with the wind from the north east, blue skies and gentle seas. We were pleased to have made the decision to leave as the wind started to gradually build which could have made the narrow channel through the reef a little tricky! We had been very fortunate to have two calm days to see this isolated location at it's best.

Our passage north had seen us sail overnight around the outside of Fraser Island. On returning south we intended to visit Platypus Bay at the entrance to Harvey Bay this would mean sailing up through the inside of Fraser Island and the main land. This area is one of the principle birthing areas for the Hump Back Whales and where all the tour operators visit with their whale watching trips. Immediately on leaving Lady Musgrave we started spotting whales, everywhere! We slowed our progress to watch as they demonstrated their awesome mastery of the seas, breeching, tail slapping and fin waving as we passed. They appeared to know we were near but were at times very close! I'm not sure how Dreamweaver would have coped with a whale of 20tons hitting her! They obviously hadn't understood the proximity limits set for yachts and seemed much closer at times than 100 meters! It was a beautiful experience, one which Roger and I will always cherish.

We spent a night at the marina in Urangan and then headed back to Fraser Island to re-visit the Kingfisher Eco Resort. We had stayed here as family 10 years ago so it was lovely to return, this time anchoring and taking our tender ashore. We enjoyed the beauty of this area of Fraser Island with it's massive mature eucalyptus trees shading the lush ferns below. We enjoyed the swimming pool and took advantage of a great cup of coffee! In the evening as we watched the sun dip over the wide horizon of Harvey Bay we were visited by a rare species of dolphin frolicing around us. A beautiful end to a perfect day.

The following day the stresses of negotiating the Great Sandy Straight lay a head! This is basically a shoaling area of sand with narrow channels allowing yachts to pass through under great care. Roger did the navigating, I held the wheel for some of the time but Georgina our auto helm did a great job of getting us safely from one set point to the next! Good old GPS and chart plotters! I ticked off every beacon as we passed and kept my fingers crossed in the hope that we wouldn't run aground! This is a very common occurrence with many a yacht having to take a long lunch break until the tide filled in and refloated them. We touched once but a thrust in reverse saw us free! We both needed a beer at the end of the day as we anchored in Tin Can Bay nerves and boat intact, thankful to have got over that hurdle. Roger had kept telling me that it was much less stressful going around the outside of Fraser Island . In some ways he's right but I haven't found many other yachts that have done it! We spent two peaceful days in Tin Can Bay Inlet psyching ourselves up face our next hurdle, crossing the infamous Wide Bay Bar to exit the Great Sandy Straight! Our first bar crossing!

Up early, ready to catch the change of tide we set out. The first section is known as the mad mile and it's a pretty good description. Waves come from all directions as they break on the sand bars between the main land and Fraser Island, this did a great job of confusing the auto helm. Roger took over the helming of Dreamweaver as I directed our course from one way point to the next. Three critical points to hit to achieve the easiest passage preventing catastrophe and the might of the breaking waves and the full washing machine effect. It took an hour from start to clearing the bar and reaching safe water! Another first achieved without drama thankfully! A few more beers needed at the end of the day to get over the stresses of the crossing! We set sail with the help of the engine for Mooloolaba.

We spent 3 nights in Mooloolaba catching up with some yachting friends Peter and Jane and also enjoying a day visit from Tony and Elaine. Always great to catch up with everybody and share stories. From here we have sailed overnight to Southport on the Gold Coast. We feel we are really heading south now on to our final destination and the return to reality. From here we will be sailing back into New South Wales waters, farewell to glorious Queensland and it's marvellous experiences and people!

On to Lady Musgrave

R has returned to blog writing! The sunny weather and light winds continued after Tony and Mark left. Mackay seemed a little more attractive this time with the glorious weather. Still no time to hang about, the usual washing, shopping, and maintenance.

We set off for Curlew Island with little wind so yet more motor sailing/motoring. The pilot area off Hay Point had 32 ships on the AIS, fortunately none manoeuvring and asking for our avoidance! With the wind from the north we had to look for different anchorages so we accepted a small bay on the west side of Curlew as protection from the NE wind, one not recommended by Alan and we know why! Yes one of those rolly nights that you keep tossing up whether to leave as you get no sleep!! Morning doesn't come soon enough.

On to the Duke Islands and the south aspect of Hunter Island in a most beautiful anchorage. We spent 2 nights there enjoying the sun and the calm bay, especially the night. Anne should have been a biologist as she has spent most of the trip fascinated by the flora and fauna. We had great seats for watching an eagle keep its young chick happy in a cliff top nest not far off the stern. That is not when we are exploring the beaches and working out how she would survive shipwrecked on a deserted Island!

On to Island Head Creek back on the mainland. We continued to be blessed with sun and light wind from the north. Another beaut location, a feeling of remoteness. We did notice some campers at the end of the beach who appeared to come in a small motor boat. The area is part of a huge military training area. In the evening they lit a camp fire and then a little later we saw the headland adjacent to their site catch fire. In the morning they disappeared before first light. We explored the location to find the camp fire still alight and the headland still burning! Fortunately there was little breeze and it was separated from the main headland by some beach. Apart from putting out the camp fire there was little we could do.

On to Rosslyn Bay, Yeppoon. It lived up to its labelling as the friendliest marina. The weather finally changed and for the next five days there was 20 knots from the south! The courtesy car was greatfully appreciated for provisioning and visit to the DIY shop! We spent much time with fellow cruisers from Sydney – Robara and Ishta. Anne befriended the fishermen again and lightened them of there catch. We don't seem to be able to repeat Marks effort! I went up the mast 5 times to replace the steaming light bulb. I couldn't work out how to open the fitting and with no instructions available [even on he internet!] didn't want to break it. The view was great and Anne got a work out winching me up and down, up and …!

The weather finally changed or so the forecast said it would! The three of us set off at 5 o'clock in the morning to be met with more wind on the nose. Suffice to say a long day and we arrived at Pancake Creek in the dark at 7pm. The chart plotter was interesting as we appear able to sail over the land. The next day the wind dropped to nothing and we motored out to Lady Musgrave Island some 32 nm off the coast and the end of the Great Barrier Reef.

You pray for weather like this to visit an outer reef lagoon and cay. We found the narrow passage into the lagoon daunting. Low tide meant all the reef was exposed including all the coral below and to the side as one traverses the gap. The swirling ebb tide of 3 knots didn't help. On to the anchorage and bommie avoidance! After that it was a fantastic 2 days, calm seas and great visibility. We left with the wind increasing to 20 knots from the north, great timing!

Tony and Marks visit

Visitors to the Whitsundays

The good weather continues and we sail south to the Whitsunday Islands and our rendezvous with Roger's brother Tony and his son Mark in Hamilton Island. We made good time to Cape Upstart via Cape Bowling Green with favourable winds continuing to push us southwards. The following day
we sailed passed Gloucester Island and anchored the night at Armit Island in the north of the Whitsundays. I had imagined this section of our return trip to be a slog as the distances between possible anchorages is considerable especially if beating and tacking along the coast. In the end it was a couple of days of pleasant sailing with light northerly breezes. On passing Gloucester Island the coastline is again green and lush, with gentle mountainous islands covered in trees. Townsville to Bowen is much drier with the Great Dividing Range set back more from the coast creating a rain shadow.

Whilst we sail towards Airlie Beach and Able Point Marina we slow down to enjoy watching the yachts gathering for the start of another race day. Roger spots a familiar sail and boat and with much waving Rosie and David on Ingenue from Brighton come over. We stop and they circle us as we catch up on each others news.

The Bureaux of Meteorology has posted a strong wind warning for late this afternoon and night with the south easterly winds set to return for less than 24 hours. We elect to spend the night in Cid Harbour making an easy sail in the morning to collect our visitors. That night we drop anchor in the security of this natural harbour along with another 64 boats! So much for the solitude of some of our previous nights.

In the morning with the winds easing we collect Tony and Mark and set out for Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island. This makes for an interesting motor sail for our non sailors! With the swell remaining from the stronger winds and the affect of the tide against this we see some larger swells, overfall's and areas of flat water caused by the spiralling currents! We pushed our way up the Solway passage following a spectacular display of the power of tides on the water. Anchoring at Whitehaven saw the sun going down and the end of another day and the start of a swell dominated sleep. Tony was not that impressed!!

The following morning the Whitsundays turn on all their charms, the silica sand beach glistening white against the back drop of blues and greens. More perfect conditions with little breeze to speak of so it's out with the iron spinnaker ( engine) again! To compliment the weather nature turns on all her marvels with an abundance of turtles, birds, dolphins and lastly humpback whales! Mothers and their babies breaking water, slapping the surface ,breeching and generally looking majestic as they glide through the water. A perfect tour for visitors!

Mark takes a turn at fishing, trolling a line and lure off the back of the boat. His patience is rewarded on his last day on Dreamweaver as he lands a 24 inch Spotted Mackerel! He then practised his surgical skills cleaning and filleting the fish. As the fish was caught on our way to Mackay and it was their last day on board the fish was cooked and enjoyed by all for lunch. The freshest fish any of us had ever eaten I think!

During their stay we visited several islands, Whitsunday, Haszlewood, Thomas, Goldsmith and Brampton this time to all the northerly anchorages. We then motored all the way to Mackay over glass like seas spotting more whales and dolphins on our journey.

It was lovely having guests aboard and as they left to catch their flight home it was Roger and I once more, alone on Dreamweaver ready to commence the journey southwards.

Hinchinbrook

Since leaving Cairns the weather has been fantastically kind to us with clear blue skies and puffs of breeze from the north pushing us in the right direction. What a change from the awful 4 days sail back from Lizard Island. The weather has in fact been so calm it has allowed us to visit the eastern side of Hinchinbrook Island. We had taken the more protected Hinchinbrook Channel on our journey north and had hoped to get the opportunity to visit the much talked about Zoe Bay on our return journey.

The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful, high sharp peaks of granite lifting skyward to form razor like ridges that ran the length of the island. Some of these edifices were enormous with sheer vertical drops plummeting down to the sea. In some ways the grandeur of the mountains reminded me of the Kintail Mountain range in Scotland that Roger and I had walked in our younger days. The valleys between green and clocked with giant trees. At night the view became surreal as some areas began having some selected burning off and the mountains glowed red against the starry night sky.

Taking our time we moored in Macushla Bay at Cape Richards and then Banksia Bay just north of Zoe Bay. We elected to spend the night here as Zoe Bay is prone to swells even in the calmest conditions which make sleep an impossibility. As the sun lifted over the horizon we weighed anchor and motored around to Zoe Bay for breakfast. Again the mountain scenery was beautiful with a magnificent beach and creek. We followed the creek and came to Zoe Bays famed waterfall and swimming pools. A well deserved plunge in the cooling water was had without the risk of the ever present crocs on Hinchinbrook!

Leaving Zoe Bay we were able to sail across to Fantome Island, the site of a leper colony come hospital up until the 1970s. The majority of the buildings had been destroyed though signs of the islands previous role were still evident amongst the grass. It was a lovely island with marvellous views but one couldn't help wonder at the pain and suffering that had been experienced by the people there. It is now managed by the local aboriginal community,surrounded by beautiful corals and it's waters visited by Dugongs which we were lucky enough to see.

From here we had a night stop over at Harold and Rattlesnake Islands checking they were not being used by the air force as a bombing range first. In the morning we headed for Townsville, each major town marks a significant step on our homeward journey and leaving Townsville would mean we were no longer in Far North Queensland. We re-provisioned in preparation for a visit from Roger's brother who was joining us in the Whitsunday's in a few days time.

Re Energised!!

Well the sail back to Cairns offered nothing but strong winds, 25 to 30 knots on the nose, rain and squalls and seas like a corrugated road! Poor old Dreamweaver slammed into these for 4 days but managed the ordeal without breakage taking us eventually into the refuge of Marlin Marina. We had been crippled by our ongoing battery problems which were showing serious signs of imminent death on our arrival. We had not used the auto helm and were anxious that we would have no instrumentation on our trip back without running the engine. It wasn't quite as bad as we thought but with little solar input on cloudy days we were struggling at times. The marina offered us copious amounts of power! No more sharing of head torches whilst reading at night! Every light on, music playing and television what luxury!

We made contact with Leo Wolf. He had been recommended as an electrician by some fellow yachties in Lizard Island and a more helpful person you couldn't hope to meet. As a German Australian he examined the batteries, arranged to have them tested and pronounced in a dry and laconic accent that they were kaput or terminally stuffed! All it would take was $1600 and we would be back in business free to sail the coast again! Needless to say the deal was done! (one of lifes no choice choices!) Dreamweaver was given a resuscitating set of new batteries and true to Leo's word all seems to have been fixed and our equipment now runs smoothly. Even the anchor lifts without alarming!

We also had the pleasure of meeting John a local sail maker who equally went out of his way to be helpful. He repaired our main sail bag which had certainly seen too many strong winds and also fixed a batten pocket which had popped on a brand new sail battling down from Lizard. So all jobs accounted for we were back, re energised, buzzing electrified and ready to head out again confident in our power situation!

Whilst in Cairns waiting for an improvement in the weather Roger and I celebrated our silver wedding anniversary! We can't believe we've been together for so many years but I guess 4 months on a boat to date hasn't seen us throwing one another off! We had a lovely meal on the anniversary but two nights later discovered a little Greek restaurant. We went to Paxos in Greece on our honeymoon, sailing and windsurfing! Has anything changed apart from us getting older! Suffice to say we ordered the same food which we had enjoyed 25 years previously. Rogers idea!

Our first night was spent at Fitzroy Island the inevitable first stop from Cairns. On our arrival we spotted another Brighton boat Instant Karma with Paul and Kathleen Wise on board. They proceeded to follow us down to Mourilyan Harbour. At times it appeared we were racing but as the wind dropped off both boats opted to use their motors to complete the journey. The competitive spirit of sailors was halted by the nature of the wind and a need for a cool beer at the end of a long day. Instant Karma kindly picked us up in their tender and post sailing drinks were enjoyed by all.

Anyhow as you see we have now left Cairns! One week later all repairs done and are heading south. Somehow it already seems cooler! It was my birthday yesterday and the day was perfect. Calm seas, blue skies, breakfast at a beautiful little island hardly visited and then onto Dunk to watch the day close over the sea for another perfect sunset! The perfect present was watching hump backed whales frolic in the calm protected waters, breaking through the waves from the decks of Dreamweaver.

Lizard Island The Jewel of The Barrier Reef

Our time at Lizard Island has been memorable in many ways. It is often described in books and articles as the Jewel of The The Barrier Reef and certainly this is truly appropriate. The colours and clarity of the waters around the island are quite extraordinary, the sea the colour of magnificent blue sapphires or the blue of opals shimmering their reflective sparkle in the sun or equally the blues of aquamarines or turquoise. It's hard to chose between these gems as all are seen in the waters of Lizard Island. The coral reefs break through the surface twice a day but otherwise the colours of the corals and fish are equally as beautiful as the sea that creates this pristine environment. We have been truly fortunate to experience the beauty of lizard Island. The beaches are soft white sand, the sea warm and there are some fantastic walks offering superb views from the hills to the Ribbon Reefs and the drop off into the Coral Sea at the edge of the continental shelf. The magnificent Blue Lagoon on the islands southern side shimmers under the sun and the blues over white coral sand are hard to describe. A wonderful place.

Lizard Islands Watson Bay is home to visiting yachts and several of these are “Live Aboard Yachties' who spend the winter months enjoying this peaceful place. These people were incredibly welcoming and friendly and quite a community feel exists amongst the bays residents. Several nights were spent enjoying pot luck dinners where all contribute a dish and the feast shared by all. Otherwise drinks on the beach watching the sun set over the turquoise sea was the norm. A very sociable time was had and a big thank you must go to all, David and Alison, Annie (from England !) and Ronnie and not forgetting Dianne and Kerry on their cat 'Nemo'.

Towards the end of our stay a white cruising cat called A Whiter Shade of Pale, arrived in Watson's Bay. It was Roger, Allison, Barry and Faye from Royal Brighton. They had seen our pennant and off to drinks we went. We must thank them as our beers were running low and they kindly donated some to our empty fridge and also helped us change a head sail in blustery conditions the following day.

Lizard Island marks the turn around point of our sailing adventure up the East Coast of Australia. We have traveled over 2500 nautical miles from Melbourne always heading north with the wind blowing us from behind most of the way. We now have to retrace our course but stopping at different locations that we previously sailed passed on the way north, this time into the wind!

Leaving Lizard is one to remember with several people taking the trouble to farewell us from their yachts at 7am on a Sunday morning. Roger and Barry followed us down the coast to Hope Island. Two days of hard beating into blustery wet 20-30 knot winds. Not much fun! They ploughed on to Port Douglas whilst we opted for a lay day before another 2 days into similar winds to Cairns.

Well we finally arrived in Marlin Marina, Cairns last Friday.Time to relax after beating into 20-30 knots for 5 days. We have the usual long list of things to do, including repairing sails and fixing our battery problems! Cairns certainly seems to be a happening place, especially at the bar by our marina finger. - more to follow

Lizard Island

Well yes it is a while since we last added a report. Lazy? Yes, enjoying the slow pace of life here.

It is really a beautiful place with a variety of things to do. The water is so clear and the snorkeling and swimming is great. The anchorage in Watsons Bay can be a hive of activity occasionally as dive boats come in to drop off or pick up new clients and there is a steady exchange of yachts passing through. Some of the luxury Gin Palaces are amazing, especially the one off our stern at the moment! Not as close as he was as we moved further into the bay feeling a bit intimidated! We found this one on the net and with 6 state rooms we estimated it was 30,000 AUD a night!!!! But don't get the wrong impression, it is pretty quiet, no jetskis!

We walked to the top of Cooks Lookout for a fantastic view of the Island and the nearby barrier reef. A fair walk in this heat.There is a visitors book in a plastic box which must get alot of entries as it dated only back to the new year. Our friends from Mandolin Wind were noted.

There is a marine research station at the other end of the island which generously gives the yachties a free tour on Mondays, and offers mail collection, library, fax etc! The guests at the expensive $1000 a night resort in the next bay have there own tour, they try to keep us at arms length! There is a regular need for volunteers at the research station with free board and 4 hours work a day. Looks fantastic. Most of the island is a national park with a campsite that allows only 8 people at any given time and apart from the $500 airfare from Cairns its $3.80 a night each! What is great here is no flies, sandflies, mosquitos, and of course no crocs! Even the sharks are tame.

The wind dropped for a couple of days giving us the ideal opportunity to visit the reef, in particular the world famous Cod Hole. We took some new friends along, Diane and Kerry.
It was a fantastic day. The water was so clear allowing us to see the bottom easily. Also the fish and the friendly sharks! The Potato Cod fish are enormous and obviously very used to the company. We could identify the reef sharks, nurse shark, but not too sure of the other two! It was a little disconcerting to drop of the back of the boat with 2 of the unrecognised sharks just a couple of metres away circling the ladder! Not helped by me feeding the fish with bread after lunch. Still we went back in! Fortunately they stayed with the boat as we swam off to explore the reef.

There are several great beaches to explore by foot and the dingy. Thats if I remember the way the tides are going and the dingy doesn't find itself being rescued by some fellow travellers as it drifted out to sea! The lagoon looks spectacular from the hill.

Despite being so isolated there is good internet reception on the boat phone/internet. Hopefully that will help us pick the right weather window to head south.

The only downer at the moment is our long standing issue of battery capacity! Many hours over drinks on the beach with fellow yachties has exhausted the subject and much examination of the system comes to the conclusion the batteries are stuffed! So we await our visit to Cairns and the verdict of an electrician before spending a few more boat units!

Retracing The Journey of Captain Cook and The Endeavour

Having stayed for longer than we had planned at the coral cay of Hope Island we sailed northwards again this time bound for Cooktown. Having read his biography during the earlier part of our own small journey it has been interesting to follow his route up the East Coast. Cooktown plays an enormous part in the fortunes of Cook and his men. I guess Australian history could have taken another course had he failed to extricate the Endeavour from her reef grounding and the safety of the Endeavour River had not been so close.

The coastline is punctuated along it's entirety by extensive reef structures and shoaling sands so that even with our modern navigation aids such as electronic chart plotters we are always on the lookout for isolated coral bomies. Quite what it must have been like for Cook on his first encounter with no charts leaves one marveling that he had not gone aground previously.

The day was a perfect sail having left hoping to arrive on a rising tide. The wind was so favourable that we attempted to slow our selves down by flying a mere postage stamp of a head sail. We still managed 5 to 6 knots and were destined to get there ahead of our planned time. A call to the local coast guard and some negotiating with the harbour master saw us drop anchor between 2 moored fishing boats at the head of the Endeavour River opposite the public jetty with every one fishing. It seems that anchoring a yacht is a new spectator sport! We now had to await the rising tide in order to cross the inner sand banks which dry in places at low tide! At 5.45pm just before sunset at 6pm we calculated we would have enough depth. Proceeding with minimal way we edged closer to our final location. We draw 2.1 meters under the keel. I was either on the bow anxiously staring into the green water looking for the bottom or monitoring our position on the chart plotter whilst Roger helmed. We scrapped across the bar with a depth sounding of 2.1 for an instance before it rose to 2.2 and 2.3 before hitting the patch of deeper water! Relief! A beer was definitely called for!

We spent the night calculating whether we would maintain an adequate depth under our keel as the tide fell but all was well thank goodness.

The next day saw us take the tender into the river banks and visit Cooktown. Having pulled the tender onto the bank and tied it to a mangrove tree we walked to the top of the boating ramp. At the top a large warning about the presence of crocs and recent sittings in the vicinity and warnings about cleaning fish and being to close to the edge! Well they didn't get us that time but from then on we were pretty cautious.

Cooktown was an enjoyable visit being dominated by the history of Cook and his voyage. The information was all well presented and the town was attractive with old elegant buildings and open park land by the river. The view across the river to the green rainforest mountains was beautiful and very peaceful. We climbed up Grassy Hill from where Cook surveyed the the extensive Barrier Reef and almost despaired of ever being able to find a route out to commence his homeward voyage. This was also the first location where Europeans sited the Kangaroo. A hot climb up an unsealed road but the views were majestic. The Captain Cook museum is located in a beautiful old building which originally was a monastery. It is owned by the National Trust being restored in 1973 it was opened by the Queen on her 1 hour visit to Cooktown! The original anchor which was discarded by Cook in his attempt to lighten the Endeavours load is on display. It was a great museum as was the local historical museum which highlighted the highs and lows of the towns history.

We treked again to the local botanical gardens which were excellent with a detailed information centre showing some of the tropical plants that had been catalogued on the original Cook voyage by Joseph Banks. From here it was a relatively short stroll to a local beach called Finch Bay. We were tempted to go for a swim but with a fair few mangroves fringing the beach one was left wondering what might be watching!

From Dreamweaver we took the tender to the opposite river banks and walked on the sand exposed at low tide. It seemed along way from the safety of our boat and Roger was pretty anxious about the possibility of being eaten by a croc! He stood armed with an oar as we walked along the edge trying to get a better view up the river. None about although we learned that they are plentiful in the river.

We spent 2 full days exploring and left early next morning on a raising tide. Crossing over the sand bar with a little more water underneath the keel than the first bound for Lizard Island. This will be our final northward stop before turning south!

Port Douglas and Hope Island

Well Jonathans visit to Far North Queensland has ended and he has returned back to the blustery cold south. He sailed with us for 2 weeks and we had a wonderful time visiting some beautiful islands and ending up in Port Douglas. Roger and I hadn't been here for a few years but Jonathan had no recollection of his previous visits so all seemed new and interesting to him. He was able to consolidate his scuba diving with 6 dives over a couple of trips to the reef, by his account it was great! It was strange not having Nick along for the journey and we recalled the last time we had a holiday with just one son, this was before Nicks birth over 21 years ago! We missed him and thought of him often.

Port Douglas had changed and grown with more apartments and restaurants than before and also some larger national chain shops which I felt changed the character of the place. In some ways I like to get away from these but everyone is different. The beach was as lovely as ever and Roger and I enjoyed some long walks as a way of justifying the cappuccinos afterwards! It was good great to return and seeing our old apartment on Maccrossan Street brought back some good memories. We couldn't help but compare our exchanging solid bricks and mortar for a yacht floating in the nearby marina!

The marina was interesting!! We had to enter Dickson Inlet on a high tide to give us enough draft under the keel. No problem. We moored up in our allocated pen within the marina and immediately realised that with a low tide we would be touching the bottom! I high tailed it up to the office only to be told that it was silt and that most boats “floated” in the mud suspension! We remained unconvinced and in fact rested on the bottom on several occasions! It appears that the area is due to be dredged but environmentalists, marina operators and politicians can't get their acts together so nothing is being done. We have subsequently learnt that the whole marina is going to be refurbished/replaced in 18 months time so that it can accommodate Super Yachts. All that came to mind was that it would need to be somewhat deeper under their keels!

We spent an interesting few hours motoring up Dickson Creek, to find it went on much further than we had time or petrol in the tender for. The mangrove lined water was home to a few more yachts, some in no state to move, and I gather a fair number of crocs! We confirmed this much to Anne's anxiety! The tender didn't offer Anne the security she needed with the croc only 10 metres away.

Well we have now left Port Douglas and set off northwards again! The skies are blue the breeze still from the south east at a gentle 10 to 15 knots and the water flat like a lake. The verdant green rainforest tumbles in folds down the slopes of the coastal mountain range falling into the blue seas. High peeked and quite spectacular. We have sailed 40nm to Hope Islands. These islands were spotted by Capt. Cooke on his discovery voyage to Australia and caused him to make the fateful decision to turn out to sea in search of an outer reef channel. He subsequently and almost catastrophically ran aground on what is known as The Endeavour Reef.

The two islands are different. The first a beautiful white coral cay and the other a mangrove covered reef, both are surrounded by an extensive reef structure which becomes visible at low tide. Lots of bird life and ? resident crocs! We were told by some friendly yachties from a few other boats that they weren't a real threat but the sign on the beach seemed to tell a different story! It made me wonder how real it has to be! Roger of course takes no notice of warnings and signs and plunged in for a swim. He didn't stay in for too long though so perhaps not quite so brave as he makes out! He's thankfully still here!

It is spectacular to see the change with the tide and enormous reefs become exposed at low tide. We were glad we came in at low tide yesterday, because in the wrong light at high tide we would have run straight into the reef! The reef here is so close to the mainland.

We are still failing at the fishing, but to be honest we haven't tried as hard as we could. Two lures lost, at least we have had some bites. The wildlife is beautiful, here there is a large group of reef egrets, pelicans, turtles, sea eagles and moray eels. The sunset tonight was different but as spectacular as ever [more photos!].

Whilst on the beach this morning we came across “Wilson” from the movie Castaway. We can report that he is alive and well enjoying all that Hope Island has to offer!

Well from here we travel to Cooktown for a couple of days and then onto Lizard Island where we will stop heading north and contemplate our return journey!

Anne

Low Isles

Its been great having Jonathan with us for this 2 week spell. The weather has been good and there has been plenty of incident! Nick is unfortunately studying hard and unable to come at present.

At Fitzroy Island we met Dave and Erica who like everybody we seem to meet are on there way to Darwin for the Indonesian rally. Yes a little envious. They appeared again at Low Isles today, and a few beers were consumned on their somewhat larger yacht SV Seacomber. Dave full of experience and knowledge and Erica a music and film library to envy. So a trade of prawns was made.
So while we wait for the prawns to cook, we watch our companions the sharks, remoras, and bait fishes.

Tomorrow up early again, as the channel into port douglas is only 1.5m c datum. so with early high tide we should be there by 9am. Then it is off to explore PD, a place where we used to have a holiday appartment and so are pretty familiar with. Maybe we will try the kite surfer again?

Roger

Of Sharks and Blue People..

Hi all,

Celebrity blogger for the last two weeks here while I've been visiting the parentals aboard the good ship Dreamweaver. It all started last Saturday with my arrival into Townsville (a much nicer town than I remembered from times past). We've since travelled through Orpheous Island, Hinchenbrook Island, Dunk Island, Fitzroy Island and now the Low Islets off Port Douglas. A tour of tropical Queenslands island paradises, some with tariffs ashore for up to 800 dollars a night, some in recievership and some infested with sharks/mosquito's/crocadiles, really in North Queensland take your pick!

Throughout the trip I've enjoyed what I am assured is the prime bedroom at the stern of the boat, apparently even better than the 'stateroom' at the bow. And while I've been attempting to fish we've lost a small child sized lure off the back of the boat (i'm sure it was a crocadile/shark/hybrid of the two).

But anyway two highlights...

Number one: Yesterday as we attempted to moor to a National Parks Mooring at Upolu Cay mum lost the buisness end of our one and only boathook (having said that does anyone carry two?). As it drifted away in the strong tidal run off and wind from the reef dad exclaimed dive and in and mum exclaimed the opposite...


I dove in, but not before devesting of all essential clothes. Grabbed the remnant of the boat hook and waited to be picked up. It's good to know that despite being their son mum and dad decided that I wasn't worth the Dan Bouy, Life Ring or Throwing Rope. I warrented a sheet (that sank) being thrown off the back.

It all ended well.

Number two: after snorkelling around Low Islet's fringing reef this morning (Turtles' and Bat Fish) and following amazing at people wearing all in one bright blue stinger suits (think Cathy Freeman's 2000 Olympic Suit plus blue gloves and life jackets) courtesy of Quicksilver we were on a friends boat next to ours having a drink. At this stage we were made aware of the large (approx. 2m) Grey Reef Sharks (Sharks not A SHARK) circling the boat...

I decided to dive in and swim to our boat, no dare, no exchange of money... Just a story to tell when I get home. I think it was the fastest 50m freestyle I've swam in a while. Probably not too bright a moment that one..

So now I sit back and wait for the prawns, we bought direct from the Prawn Trawler anchored in our bay, to defrost. Tommorow we arrive in Port Douglas and Thursday I head out Scuba Diving on the outer reef. Rest assured that there will be adventures yet to come before I leave to head back to work and the cold on Sunday.

Magical Magnetic Island

After leaving Cape Gloucester we had a short 2 night stay in Bowen. Its recent claim to fame being the filming of the 'epic' Australia. Also for its flying boat base in the war, and the historical murals regularly displayed on the side of buildings in town. A pleasing change to graffiti. The harbour is a little shallow and the marina section also shallow is awaiting development. So with little wind we elected to anchor outside the harbour, safe says Alan Lucas in calm or northerlies. Fortunately we had left the tender inflated on the deck leaving Montes.

With increasing blue skies and heat we left to pass the 3 capes on the way to Magnetic Island. Glorious weather – its been that way for the past week so I won't annoy you by repeating it! Managed to get the right wind and angle to put up the asymmetrical spinnaker, and did we go. Yes I did get excited! We tucked behind Cape Upstart the next night in Shark Bay. Has anyone counted the number of shark bays in Australia? Yes I did have a short swim. Next morning off to Cape Bowling Green, a never ending cape, more like a sand spit. Despite the failing afternoon wind the iron spinnaker prevailed and we pressed on to Cape Cleveland which is just before Townsville.

Our son Jonathan was not due to arrive until Monday so we crossed the bay to the north side of Magnetic Island and Horseshoe bay. Sheltered from the SE wind we have spent a very pleasant 4 days. Glorious weather – whoops – I have just read about the cold snap down south! Explored the Island a bit, today the east end on foot. Lovely beaches. Our botanist, come the next David Attenborough continues to try and educate me about the flora and fauna. Today included the rock wallaby, kaola, and of course the Kookaburras. The latter perched in the tree outside the takeaway off course! Regular excitement with the sound of the deep intake of breath as the turtles pay us a visit. The island appears very dry, they describe us being in the dry tropics, but it still gets twice the rainfall of Melbourne.

We continue to add to the Sunset collection, including a sci fi view of burning fires on the horizon at sunset [see picasa].

Better go for a swim, its too b.. hot!

Roger

Wandering through the Whitsunday Islands

It seems a while since we posted a blog time passes and these days we are at times left wondering which day of the week it actually is. It has seemed that one beautiful Whitsunday Island is replaced with another and life has taken on a much slower pace. We are presently moored in an absolutely idyllic location at Cape Gloucester having passed through the Gloucester Passage yesterday afternoon. The sea is flat and calm (always important!) and a clear turquoise over sand.The sun has returned and we are enjoying some fantastic days doing very little sailing and relaxing in such a gorgeous location. The winds have varied greatly during our travels in the Whitsundays at times over 25 knots, being driven by the south east trades but now they are very light and balmy down to 5 to 10 knots for the next few days. On with the engine again if we need to get anywhere!

A few days ago whilst exploring the beach at Jonah Bay we discovered 5 cans of VB! Someone was either too drunk or overloaded that each 10 minutes he dropped another can. I have tested one so far and all seems well!

We regularly see turtles and some pretty huge fish off the back of the boat thankfully no sharks yet as Roger has his daily plunge from the stern! I haven't had the heart to try and catch any yet. Call me sentimental but if they have grown so well how can I be the one to catch them.They all look so beautiful! Sorry Joel!

It seems that we are always taking many sunset and sunrise photographs, each one always appears more impressive than the last. It's become a bit of a rictual to sit and watch the sun dip below the horizon, glass of wine in hand at the end of another beautiful day. We then see the first stars rise. Presently we nearly have a full moon which washes out the intensity and brilliance of the night sky although it does send its own glow over the water.

We have both said how very privileged we are to have the opportunity to do this and how we wish others could do the same. Work, families and the normality of life makes it so easy to get caught up with the mundane, we forget the things that are important. It makes you realize what a beautiful place the World is and how we all take it so much for granted. May be we all need some time out to touch the World more gently and appreciate what we have.

David and Tina came to visit and we managed to see many of the more visited Whitsunday locations. It was lovely having time with them and Roger appreciated them sharing his 50th birthday. We left them at Hamilton Island where they caught a flight back to Melbourne. We then sailed to South Molle and spent a couple of daysrelaxing and walking up the islands, hills gaining some fantastic views of the Whitsundays. From here we returned to the bustle of Airlee Beach where we have had some sail repairs completed and restocked the food and supplies after our guests! We now have 10 days before Jonathan arrives for a 2 week holiday,this will require a major re provisioning in Townsville!!

Well were off to Bowen for a day and then we head north in preparation for our pick up location for Jonathan. We'll be saying farewell to the Whitsundays for a while but hopefully not for long.
Anne

OCD or Not? A Personnel Defence!

Yachts can be the strangest of places particularly at night. As I lay in my bed last night I attempted with all my will power to stop myself listening to the creaks and groans of the moving yacht but eventually I gave up and had to respond to the incessant tap tap of another previously undiscovered piece of rope or noise that seemed to emanate from the mast!

It led me to think am I really suffering from the obsessive compulsive disorder that Roger claims I have? He is after all a doctor!

I'm a pretty methodical person and have over these last 7 weeks isolated the majority of the potential night time threats to a good sleep. The swinging boom moving repeatedly with the sway and motion of the waves and change of tide was easily solved with a simple rope preventer. However this has led to a false sense of success and not all creaks and rattles are as easily resolved.

So last night as the latest potential threat loomed over head a sense of despondency fell. Ok it wasn't raining tonight but a flimsy night dress doesn't offer much in the way of protection against the wind but who was there to see? No excuse there against getting up. The knock knock was still there. Could I sleep through it? No Way! I tell Roger I'm going to fix another rattle up on deck in the hope that should a monstrous wave or massive gust take me off the boat he may notice. Most unlikely! Any how I climb up and am unable to isolate the problem! Ok I resign myself to the thought of sleeping through it.

Back in bed tap tap tap. What is it this time? No chance of sleep! I look up to the hatch blind. Success! It's the culprit as it oscillates against the roof. I need not have risked life and limb to solve this one. Ah the prospect of sleep perfect sleep.

Wait a minute what's that noise! May be Roger's diagnosis is right? I just have to investigate.

Angels and Snubbers

Well another day in paradise. Yes it has been a glorious day. 25 degrees and a very light breeze.

Last night was interrupted by a thunderstorm which caused a bit of drama as we dragged our anchor and had to find a new more secure spot. Anne was on the foredeck during all this and so got pretty wet. We had to get out the wet weather gear, not seen for a few weeks, a little too late for Anne! The rest of the night was affected by the concern for the weather and our new anchorage. Anchor alarm/GPS activated and regular wake ups to the clock to check all was well. To jump to this evening, and yes another thunderstorm happening as I write! Fingers crossed. A lot more rain than last night and no gaps to the thunder. Anne is next to me counting and I am checking our position on the chart plotter! Should I have deployed the anchor buddy? Is there something in the name of this place – Neck Bay? We won't tell the parents about this, they arrive tomorrow. Still you will probably have seen the weather in SE Queensland.

We have had a very lazy day. Slept in after last night, then a trip to the beach. Watched the dolphins feed and then the continuing education programme! More of 'yacht electrics for idiots' followed by knots and splices. I have finally conquered the eye splice [photo on Picassa]. Yes I hear you saying what an exciting time!

I wrote this a few days ago. Dad and Tina arrived on the Friday. As we entered the marina at Hamilton Island we saw their Jetstar plane land above us! That day and the next showed the Whitsundays at its best. First stop was Whitehaven beach, never seen it so perfect like all those photos. We explored all the way up to Hill Inlet, at least 3 hours on the beach. Unfortunately the weather has changed with strong winds and showers, so we have been hiding in Nara Inlet for a few days. The stories about a shark breeding area have stopped me having my swim at every anchorage.

Oh yes today is a special day – my ...b'day! No fancy restaurants here, which suits me fine. Surprised the internet connection is so good this morning. Anne is thinking of renaming our blog 'Angels and Snubbers'. She says she is always setting and weighing the anchor. Using the anchor angel and snubber to make sure we don't move and get a reasonable nights sleep! In fact Anne is developing many OCD traits!! It has been good to have some company, stopped Anne from using my new spliced rope...! Oh and another surprise, we played scrabble last night and I lead from start to finish! Doesn't say much for the competition I hear you say.
Richard would love the night sky we see most nights, absolutely amazing.

Well I have been instructed to get off the computer. BFN Oh by the way who stole my photograph from the last blog?

Perfect Paradise in the Whitsunday's

I think both Roger and I feel we have made it at last. The sea is warm and turquoise,the sun is again shining, the beaches pristine and plentiful and for much of the time we are anchored alone in these idyllic surroundings. We have stopped heading north at a break neck pace. No more over night passages and in fact several days spent at the same location!

We spent a couple of lovely nights at Goldsmith Island before sailing the grand distance of 9 nautical miles to our present location at Thomas Island. Nobody here but us and the occasional Leatherback Turtle moseying on by. There have been many Sea Eagles soring over the waters but we have yet to see any dive for a fish. So little effort as they reach there lofty heights. The pace of the day has changed and today was spent snorkeling and taking the tender for a run about. we have run out of fuel a few times but our trusted oars have got us back to the boat without a hitch.

Arriving at Mackay

We had a great sail down from Curlew Island to Mackay with the persistant south easterlies pushing us along. It had looked like rain but fortunatly the wet weather gear wasn't called for although I did wear my waterproof pants for most of the trip. They prevent the legs and knees from getting so battered and bruised whilst working around the fore deck, hoisting sails etc. As it seems the warm weather has deserted us for a while it wasn't too hot. So much for not needing any of this gear once rounding the south east corner of Australia from Bass Straight! We passed Cape Capricorn a few days earlier and so at that point we were officially in the Tropics. I have been reading the biography of Captain Cook and it has been interesting to see why many of the places we have been passed were named by him all though years ago! This included this particular Cape. He had been hopeful that better sailing times were ahead of him at that point. Little did he realise the nature of The Great Barrier Reef. At least all our charts etc should make our journey some what easier as we travel through the reef and islands.

On our sail to Mackay we passed very close to Hay Point a massive coal loading facility just south of our destination. I was busy down below reviewing the chart plotter and our approach to the marina, Roger was at the helm. The next thing I hear coming over the VHF radio (we always monitor Ch 16 the emergancy frequency) is the voice of the Captain of a large inbound cargo ship moving towards Hay Point! "Unidentified sailing yacht I need you to make a course alteration to facilitate my entry to Hay Point" Shocked I ask Roger if he can see anything? Yes he says "a large ship heading for us!" Changing frquencies I have a discusion with the Captain in which I agree to his request! How can one argue with a 112 ft ship bearing down on us? This leads to us gybing around the back of the ship! Roger felt he could have argued about the rights of sail over motor but the prospect of ending up as match sticks( if we were a wooden yacht) was enough to make us alter our course! The photographs on Picasa show how close the ship came!!

The remainder of the sail was very straight forward arriving in the new marina. It's amazing with piles the like of which I have never seen before. They are so tall. The tide here is enormous and with the possibility of a storm surge in cyclone season the floating pontoons have to remain on these piles. Hard to imagine that the water could rise this high. I will take some photographs once it stops raining on us! Have a look at the weather picture and you get an idea of why it's so wet here at the moment.

Well best actually stop now and go to bed. As Roger said I managed to fall asleep earlier still I like to think I'm just catching up on earlier lost sleep from all those rolly anchorages out in the islands. Nothing at all to do with Roger's company!

Island hopping along the Curtis Coast

Well you might ask why no entry since Pancake Creek? Something to do with the passage taking us out of Internet coverage.
We are presently in Mackay marina and as things have it we are watching a documentary on fishing trawlermen. Whilst the AIS identifies all the large ships well, unfortunately not the same can be said for numerous fishing boats. So one has to keep a keen eye on their lights and movement.

Pancake Creek marked the start of day sailing, no overnight passages for a while; I hear a thankful sigh from Anne! Onward to Great Keppel Island. A good days sail with the SE wind behind us, making 8+ knots most of the time. Just as we came to anchor having come around the eastern side of the Island we noticed a catamaran coming towards us tripping off the AIS! Must be our friends in their Perry 43 who have the enhanced AIS with transponder! We had actually seen them in Pancake Creek but only talked on VHF. We spent a great couple of days sharing a few drinks in the evening with Martin, Sue, and Sue’s brother in-law. Explored the beach. And to Anne's OCD pleasures were able to inspect the anchor! The water was great. You laugh but we were woken the other night with a large catamaran dragging it's anchor and getting very close! Even had a swim. A brief digression – Anne is asleep again and it's only 9 pm. She falls asleep most evenings, must be my company!! Keppel had a well known resort but this closed about 18 months ago. The resort was around the corner and the way it is tucked behind the beach you hardly notice it from the sea. Still a very pretty island, but despite the shelter from the wind, the swell at anchor....

After 2 nights at Keppel it was off again at first light. Another days sail to Pearl Bay on the mainland, just south of Shoalhaven a military training area. Yet another good sail with this persisting southeasterly and its accompanying swell. Going down wind we maintain a good speed of 8-10 knots. We reached a maximum of 12 knots surfing down a wave! A beautiful bay which appeared very calm! However with the change in tide later it became very rolly! Anne took some great sunset photographs. We didn't go to the beach as much to our surprise this area has crocodiles and tiger sharks!

The next day saw the routine of waking at 530am and raising the anchor at 0615am. We set off for Middle Percy Island some 40 nautical miles away. The persisting SE winds of 15-25 knots meant good progress and we arrived early afternoon. The ritual of inflating the tender and launching followed. Percy Island has an interesting history that more recently involved the courts and the legitimacy of the lease. An inscrutable Englishmen had obtained the lease from a mentally ill elderly man. You will see a fair number of photos in our picasa album [see link]. The islands main beach has an A frame with lots of memorabilia from previous visitors. One is encouraged to leave your mark!

The next day was a day sail to Curlew Island, and then onward to Mackay.. I will leave the story about our arrival in Mackay to Anne!

News from Roger!

Well, I am being hassled for a contribution! A little anxious about my readers review of the spelling and grammar might have something to do with it!

We are safely anchored in Pancake Creek just north of 1770 on the Curtis Coast. Had a lazy day catching up on sleep and generally relaxing. It is a very pleasant spot and considering the strong winds outside very calm, even with the wind whistling through the rigging.

The overnight passage up from Mooloolaba started in 10 knots, but we have found those early morning winds no indication of what is to follow! To be fair we have great information at our fingertips with the Internet weather websites, and failing that the radio broadcasts. Even Anne is becoming an avid reader of the BOM websites!! Back to the overnight passage. We had planned to go to the Great Barrier Reef island of Lady Musgrave, that would involve a long hike up the coast leaving Fraser Island to port. With fresh winds averaging 20 knots we made good progress, but once past Breaksea Spit, an impressive extension of Fraser, the rain and squalls made progress less enjoyable. The yacht manged well, with 2 reefs in the main and partially furled jib we romped along with the wind from behind at 8-10 knots. As we passed Lady Elliot Island the weather didn't look appealing for a reef lagoon of LMI! Not to mention the full cloud cover, reduced visibility, and strong wind that made even I see sense and admit to a change in plans and sail past LM. The impressive waterspout and dark clouds caused concern but fortunately it passed by with no drama. The yacht has certainly been washed well with fresh and salt water since leaving the drought ridden Victoria!

We arrived here just before dusk only to find the buoys ahead of us not on the charts or in the bible of cruising - Alan Curtis! A letter to the author, and Navionics I think! We avoided grounding somehow.

I still can't get Anne to sleep on the overnight passages, she obviously doesn't trust me or the yacht! But there often isn't much room in our bunk with her friends!! Pillows, cushions and more pillows!! Domestic drama today with the fridge not working. Joel came to our rescue with the correct diagnosis of doggy connection! A little of wiggling and we have refrigeration again!

Tomorrow the forecast is for 20-25 again from behind, great! Anne was hoping for those light green areas on the wind charts! Still she is bearing up well scrambling around the foredeck in all weather with yes me given helpful instructions! We have certainly had varied sailing from 5 metre swells and waves on top to flat calm seas and the sound of the engine! Yes sometimes it has been perfect, we sailors are difficult to please!

Another technical failure, I was going to insert some photos but can't. Go to the picassa link if you are interested. That seems a good place to finish my ramblings. Tomorrow a days sail to Keppel Islands.

Night Time Contemplations!

We enjoyed our time in Coffs Harbour. The sun shone, the swell of the ocean lessened and the waves stopped hammering at the break water. It was a quaint little town frequented by holiday makers and with an active fishing fleet. We spent two nights here before deciding to set sail for Southport on the Gold Coast, south of Brisbane. Lots of coffees, chatting with some other cruisers from Mornington and generally relaxing.

Setting sail on a gloriously sunny day we prepared for the 24 hours it would take us until our next destination. At night we usually sleep and maintain a watch for 3 hours on 3 hours off. It has worked well so far although it's always hard to get out of bed from a deep sleep. It does however give you long periods of contemplation time whilst sitting up on deck!

I tend to go through a routine every few minuets with Georgina the auto pilot doing most of the hard work. She's much better than I am at holding a true course which is a great relief. Firstly I look at all the instruments. What's the wind up to? Has it changed since my last look at the sails ? I hope it isn't increasing too much, I might have to wake Roger if it does. Equally I hope it's not lessening too much otherwise it might be on with the engine again. What next? Where are the fishermen? There are always usually a few to be seen and sometimes it's hard to distinguish them from low stars or other lights. I dread missing one! Once reassured I glance at the sails, are they filling and working well or do I need to adjust them slightly? When all is done out in the cockpit I look down into the cabin at the chart plotter. Are we following the course? Have I seen something out in front that I'm not happy about? Reassured that all is well I sit back for a while listening to the sounds around the boat. The noise as she's pushed forward through the waves with the sea touching the sides, the sounds of the sails and the reassuring turning of the wheels as Georgina does her stuff!

It can at times be cold and often before sun up the moisture can condense and settle on the seats. I usually have my wet gear on just to avoid getting a damp. I'm tethered to the boat with a life line and have my life jacket on. Mind you I'm not planning on going anywhere, the cockpit is as far as I venture on my own at night! Though if the worse should happen my life tag alarm will hopefully wake Roger so that he comes back to get me!!!

The stars are dramatically bright, reflecting their silver light onto the sea with an incredible intensity. So many stars and planets I can't contemplate the thought that there is nothing else out there. The early rise of Venus and the accompanying morning star is a welcome sight at about 4.30am but this is soon washed out as the sun begins to lift and lightens the eastern sky, long before sunrise. Then with an amazing rush of orange, red and gold the sun rises above the horizon, the ocean changes from black to blue and the next day begins. The World is a larger place once more as the dark night receeds. The start of another beautiful day and the end to contemplation!

Anne

Soldier's Point and onto Coffs Harbour

Entering Port Stephens at night had been an INTERESTING experience and the prospect of a well deserved nights sleep was overwhelming. Our location was Shoal Bay described by Alan Lucus the navigating guru of these parts as a little rolley with the swell entering the heads! It was clearly that! I lay in my bed wondering at what point in our development we loose the desire to be rocked to sleep. Do babies really find it a comfort? My other thoughts concerned the word swell. How different the two meanings! "He's a swell kind of guy." " We had a swell night out" All positive and pleasant. The swell of the sea is something quite different and that night it was certainly not a warm and fussy experience going through my head!

With strong winds the next morning and rain I wasn't too keen to go back out through the heads and so we moved up the bay to Soldiers Point Marina where a comfortable night was spent with no rocking or motion under Dreamweavers hull!

On Thursday the World was a different place with light winds and blue skies. We cast off the warps early and set off for an overnighter to Coffs Harbour. At the time of writing we have no wind at all the seas are flat and gently undulating. The dolphins have joined us again frollicking in the wash of the boat and Roger is pursuing his new polishing fettish!
Anne

Leaving Pittwater

Well we finally left Pittwater on Tuesday early morning. A reasonable forecast and clearing rain! We left our flat and tranquil inlet of the Hawkesbury and sailed out into the ocean. Seas of 4m plus and winds up to 25 knots meant speedy progress if a little reluctance on my part to go below and risk sea sickness. The yacht handled the conditions well with an average of 9 knots with very conservative sailing, but by the early evening we decided rest was required and decided headed for Port Stephens for the night. Not as straight forward as we thought with a significant shoal just inside the entrance. A bar we thought! A daunting passage in the dark with our new friends the VMR [volunteer marine radio] guiding us in. The white water coming over the stern was followed by Anne calling out to put on the accelerator to avoid the next wave taking us! Then it was over, and in the dark we sought out a mooring in shoal bay. Anne's attempt at catching the mooring floating rope failed! Not a good omen for future fishing!

Motoring around the Hawkesbury

Well we're thinking of applying for long term residency of the Hawkesbury Region as rain and strong southerly winds keep us in the area. We did attempt to venture to Newcastle on Friday night but lets say, large swells and strong gusts encouraged us to return to the safety of the Hawkesbury! As Roger said " He didn't fancy being the headline news report on channel 9 news!"

Jason from Dufour had encouraged us to explore the creeks and beauty of the Hawkesbury and the surrounding Kuring Gai Chase National Park so fate has kept us here doing just this. I guess we have to accept that you can't create deadlines when cruising because the weather determines so much. Hard for Roger to reconcile.

It is really very beautiful with deep fjord like flooded valleys, their sandstone cliffs covered in large gums clinging to the vertical sides. The first night we took refuge in a bay of the same name and subsequently have explored Cowan Creek and Smiths Creek where we have anchored for the past 2 nights. It's very peaceful with some sun and the sounds of rain on the deck of Dreamweaver, whilst we are cocooned safely inside.

So when do we head off again? Looks like it may be Tuesday morning still going north in search of the warmth and sun. The winds will hopefully subside and the swells drop and we can set off, Maloolaba here we come! Fingers crossed!!!
Anne

Pittwater

Although we haven't posted a blog for a few days we have safely arrived in Pittwater on Sydney's northern beaches. Why here you may wonder? Well it's the home base for Dufour Yachts and as I write various jobs are being completed. The navigation lights which failed as we left Melbourne are now fully functioning and some recalibration of instruments is taking place. A hive of activity for all except Roger and I who sit and watch others at work! We hope that all will be completed by Friday so that we can set sail again on Saturday morning.

The sail from Eden was very easy with light winds and sunshine during the day. We called into Ulladulla for some fuel on route worrying that we may run out, should we have to motor all the way. This was need less really, although it was a huge ordeal! We approached the designated jetty as directed by the harbour master only to find it full of fisherman who were very reluctant to pull in their lines. The boat became entangled with muliple threads! They were pretty unhappy with us though not our fault. They continued to fish!

Roger climbed the jetty side. No mean feet and set off in search of fuel! I was left to guard the boat from hostile fisher folk! The fuel turned out to be 1km away! Roger carried 40 litres all the way back to the boat. He now has really long arms!

We high tailed it out vowing never to return!

We spent the night at Wreck Bay with my navigating Dreamweaver into a small area using the GPS to guide us with Roger at the helm, awaking in the morning to an idealic anchorage. You can actually find these places on Goggle Earth.

One of the worst jobs on a yacht is the blockage of a head. Otherwise a toilet! They say nothing should go into them that has not passed through you! Any how one was blocked. Without a clue Roger and I set out as marine plumbers! Let's say we hope never to have to repeat the experience but the problem and affending item was removed!!!!

Setting off at night for Sydney we dodged the large ships making for Botany Bay and finally got into Pittwater in time for lunch!

So where next? Still in the planning but probably Seal Rocks north of Port Stephens then Byron Bay and probably Maloolabar north of Brisbane! We'll keep you posted. Anne

Leaving Eden

We've set off again up the New South Wales coastline leaving Eden and it's calm waters last night at 8pm. We'd arrived after midnight having slugged it out, tacking back and forwards against some northerly winds, it seemed to take forever covering small amounts of the coastline with each tack. Roger did most of the helming though Andrews help relieved him at times. I just readied myself for each tack and dreamed of sleep!
The weather has set and is warm and sunny. As a consequence we were unsure that we would make Sydney to meet Andrew's deadline for a return to work! Poor thing! So we have said farewell and it's just Roger myself and the accompany of frolicking dolphins in our bow wave.
Anne

Point Hicks

We are getting there, mostly motoring at the moment with only 5 knots and on the nose as well.
just passed Point Hicks and on the way to Gabo Island.
Just a note to say the programme is putting in the wrong date, though the computer date is correct, something to mull over!
A few technical problems so far - navigation lights gone, using spare ones, thankfully bought just before we left! the automatic identification system was working perfectly until just out of the heads, but not till 5 seconds ago, now it is working again!!! and there are no ships around!! also the autopilot won't talk to the chart plotter!
Otherwise we seem to have conquered the sea sickness, though of course Anne never had any!!
The sun is out and the coastline looks fantastic, not seen a soul for a while.

Better get back to work and stop this blogging! You all work hard, and enjoy my absence!
Roger

Thursday Morning

Well on our way towards Eden with very light winds and the engine doing most of the work! Just completed our second night at sea with us both managing a little sleep in between watches. The night was incredibly clear with an enormous yellow moon shimmering accross the ripples on the sea. I could hear sounds throughout the night but was unable to see any dolphins though thought them near by. As the moon dropped down to the west and the morning sun came up, playing in the wake of our bow were at least 15 dolphins. They must have been there most of the night playing in the turbulance of the sea. Magnificent and beautiful! Anne

We've left!!!

Tears on the marina as we left at 0728! this morning!! A send off from the Jonathan, Nicholas, Grandad, Grandma, and Kal. I hope we will be returning,, or do they know something I don't? 

We have recruited Andrew to share the dramas of the first leg to Sydney, poor Andrew!

We were keen to get the favourable w/nw wind before it swung round to the south at 30 knots. And we did, 15-20 knots down the bay and sailed through the West Channel and arrived at the Queenscliff Marina at 1130. The marina is very modern, nearly empty. 

No doubt we will spend the afternoon de stressing and repacking. Many items were thrown in at the at the last moment: there goes the plan for an ordered ship.

I must go and do the washing up! Did I hear your jaws drop!!

Last day at work

Fortunately the Friday before leaving was a quiet day at the coalface. Which made up for the day before! The send off from work was great though I was becoming a little paranoid, and thought there might not be a job to come back to!!

Hopefully anyone who is interested will be able to follow our journey reading the blog, adding their comments, and following the destinations on Google Earth!

For some of us this blog business is very new, so be prepared for a few hickups!

Last minute preperations are in hand, including fixing the navigation lights!!

The weather for the weekend looks very ordinary but hopefully the high behind the front will provide agreable conditions in Bass Strait.

Well better get back to the never reducing list